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Just Incredible

 

The long period swell from June 7th put a hurting on some of the Newport Wedge locals.  And thank god the cameras were there to catch all the chaos that ensued. 




 

Holly Beck and the ladies at Amigas Surf Camp getting some fun rides in some fun waves.

Good people at Equinox,

Just thought I'd drop you a line. Through a friend (Rich P. of Forest Lake, as my Japanese credit card would not work in your payment system) I bought one of your quad fish boards, a 5-10 Coalition. It was inexpensive so I thought I'd keep the board around my mom's home in Irvine for when I visited from Japan. I thought the 6 & 6 oz glass would make for heavier than necessary but figured it'd be durable and good to keep around so what the hell.  I took the board out in Huntington in overhead, Trestles shoulder +, and out in Oceanside above the pier at the first jetty in head high. Caught took off on the first big pumper that I paddled for and never looked back.  I ended up bringing the board back to Japan and have taken it out a number of times in the last week and really enjoyed it.

Now I'm gonna have to buy another board for when I visit Irvine next time.  I'll be in touch.

Saw your ad in either Surfline or MSW and that's how I found your site.  I grew up in Torrance and lived in Manhattan Bch and El Porto so I noticed your Hermosa address immediately.  Good onya guys and best wishes.

Michael K.
Onjuku, Chiba, Japan

 

 

 

 

 
 
SETUP:  When pulling off a round house cut back, the key to being successful is generating as much speed as possible before starting the maneuver.  Get a few pumps up and down the face to make sure you're movin' at the right speed.  

INITIAL TURN:   This move actually starts on your bottom turn.  Make sure you don't draw out your bottom turn to much or you will loose much of your speed in the flats. Conversely, don't make it too tight or you will be jammed in the pocket of the wave with no space to make a turn.  Make a gently arching radius while keeping your weight centered over the mid section of the board.

TRANSITION:   As you you come off your bottom turn and start your incline up the wave and out on to the shoulder.  Keep the board flat on the face of the wave as to not loose any speed.  Once you feel the speed of the board slightly start slowing, begin your turn.  Keep you head pointed in the direction you want to go.  Your heels should push down to make the inside rail create traction.  On a frontside roundhouse you should be looking over your leading shoulder as you move through the turn.   Always remember that where your head and shoulders point is where the board will end up moving.  Your weight should slightly be focused on the tail of your board in the middle of the turn which will help you push water.  

REBOUND: Once you have completed the turn, you will be facing back towards the wave.  You have to make a decision at this point.  Where should I rebound off the wave?  If you make your way up to the crest, you will be force to pull a re-entry to get back into the wave.  If you aim for the bottom you might not have enough power to rebound you back onto the shoulder.  There is a delicate balance of where to aim.  I recommend trying to ride on the inside of the foam ball to regain speed and rebound.  Once you are propelled back out on to the shoulder set up to do another roundhouse.  

Here is a good video of this move slowed down so you can see the specific movements described above.


 
EQUIPMENT:   One of the most important factors in learning to noseride is having the correct equipment.  Having a broad nose and a nose scoop will definitely help you progress faster.  Having a board that is too short and not designed correctly will make for some frustrating waves.  Here are some of the best Equinox Longboards for Noseriding. 

CORRECT WAVE:   In addition to picking the correct board, the second most important factor is to find the right wave suited for longboarding. Ultimately this wave should be long, mellow, and flat.  Attempting to learn on a powerful beachbreak is not advised and can make learning very frustrating.  At this point I will assume that you know the basics of surfing and catching a wave.
 
SETTING UP:   Setting up off the bottom turn is very important as being in the right position in the pocket will high determine how successful the noseride is.  If needed fade back towards the peak of the wave before turning back down the line.  Bottom turning with too much power might propel you out to the flat while not enough power will not put you into the pocket. 
 
MAKE YOUR MOVE:   Determining when to make your move to the front of the board will dictate whether you bog down and pearl or sucessfully pull it off.   You want to make your move once you feel the board trimming down the line at approximately the same speed as the wave.  You should draw a line at a slight angle back up the face of the wave.  Once your board starts nearing the top of the wave gently move forward on the board keeping your feet ever-so slightly on the wave edge of the board.  At this point you want to make a few quick steps to the front but remember walk lightly.  Cross stepping, just as the name sounds is the most stylish of methods to get to the nose. If you are positioned correctly the board will remain at the same pace and your weight will be on the nose.
 
HANGIN OUT:   Now you are on the nose and many small adjustments will be made.  You will need to make slight movements to keep the board moving down the line with speed.  Move slightly back if you start bogging.  Try one foot on the nose to see how that feels.  Got more confidence, move both feet up front and stand tall. 

MOVING BACK:   Now you have camped out on the nose but the wave is starting to die a little and you need to get back.  Gently cross step to be back of the board while keeping your eye down the line.  It's OK to look down at your feet but try to refain from looking back as this might throw off your balance.  Once you are back try a nice smooth cutback and set up for the next section. 

Check out the video below for some great noseriding in action. 
 

 

About a century ago, the sport of surfing made its way from Hawaii to California’s coast. Since then, almost every area of surfing – design of surfboard, riders, and the industry – have showed drastic changes while the best surfing spots have pretty much remained unchanged. There are numerous amounts of them stretching from Northern California down to Southern California incorporating many different types waves. 

Just a little off the Highway 101, Rincon can be found on the edge of the line of Santa Barbara County and Ventura County.  On a good day you will get rubbery legs from this lengthy point-break, which is divided into: the Cove, Indicators and Rivermouth. For years, a lot of the progression of surfing took place at this spot and it is also known as the spot that produced popular surfers like Bobby Martinez and Tom Curran.

Rincon, which has a reasonably small beach, perches on the shoreline’s curve and angled towards waves coming in. This angled coastline provides and ideal setup and waves peel down the beach. This spot is a winter spot with W/NW swells making this plate light up.  As a result of the Channel Islands, the summer months are typically very flat. 

Rincon’s Best Surfboard

Although there are a variety of different boards being ridden at Rincon, the preferred stick is a shortboard.  This wave can become very high performance on the right swell and having a responsive board is key.  The shortboard surfboards are generally less than 7ft in length. There are various kinds of shortboard surfboards, including quad fin, thruster, step up and pod. This wave provides plenty of large shoulders to perfect your cutbacks, big turns and airs. 


Classic Day at Rincon - Sea Movies from www.KORDUROY.tv on Vimeo.

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